Exposed Aggregate Perth: Driveways, Alfresco & Pool Areas

As Perth homeowners reimagine their outdoor living areas, exposed aggregate has risen to prominence for driveways, alfresco entertaining zones and pool surrounds. Combining long‑term durability with designer appeal, this finish delivers a naturally textured, non‑slip surface that weathers the Western Australian climate and demands minimal upkeep.

Yet the secret to a flawless exposed aggregate installation lies in more than choosing an attractive stone blend. It hinges on meeting Australian Standard AS 4586 for slip resistance, embracing water‑sensitive urban design to manage stormwater, and selecting the right sub‑base and sealing system. With these factors in balance, you’ll end up with a surface that’s as safe as it is stylish.

This article offers a clear, step‑by‑step guide—from defining your project scope and selecting aggregates to pouring, exposing, sealing and ongoing maintenance. Each section is packed with practical tips and checklists tailored to Perth’s conditions and regulations.

Follow these 11 steps to achieve a stunning, safe and long‑lasting outdoor concrete finish.

Step 1: Plan Your Exposed Aggregate Project

Good planning is the cornerstone of any successful exposed aggregate installation. By taking time to map out your project in advance, you’ll avoid costly delays, minimise waste and ensure you end up with an outdoor space that works just as you imagined.

Start by defining exactly where the exposed aggregate will go—is it a high‑traffic driveway, a relaxed alfresco area or a pool surround that needs extra slip resistance? Clarifying the application upfront helps you and your installer choose the right stone, sub‑base and finish.

Next, note any site constraints. Measure the area, check vehicle access for machinery, record existing falls (the natural slope) and get a handle on soil type. These details influence excavation requirements, drainage design and material choices.

Finally, sketch out a rough budget and timeline. Even a simple spreadsheet or notebook can help you track material costs, labour estimates and key milestones. You’ll thank yourself later when quotes roll in that match your expectations.

Define Project Scope and Objectives

When you define scope, think in terms of function and form:

• Functional requirements: Will the surface carry cars or just foot traffic? Do you need a P4 slip rating for wet‑area safety?
• Style and colour: Are you after a warm, terracotta‑toned quartz or a cool, grey granite look? Consider how it ties in with brickwork, paving or planting.
• Integration with landscaping: Do you need matching pathways, planter beds or lawn edges? A coherent plan helps avoid awkward junctions later.

Evaluate Site Conditions and Climate

Perth’s climate and soils have a direct bearing on your exposed aggregate finish:

• Soil classification: Sandy subsoils drain quickly but may require deeper compaction. Clayey soils can heave when wet, so a thicker base may be needed.
• Rainfall and UV exposure: While our dry summers ease curing, UV can fade oxide pigments. Choose UV‑stable colourants and allow for a wet season install if possible.
• Drainage and falls: A minimum 1–2 % fall away from buildings ensures water sheds safely. Note any existing soakage pits or downpipes you can tie into.

Determine Budget and Timeline

A ballpark formula for exposed aggregate works like this:

• Material costs = area (m²) × supply rate ($/m²)
• Labour & finishing = area (m²) × labour rate ($/m²)
• Sealer & sundries = area (m²) × seal rate ($/m²)
• Contingency = 10–15 % of total

Allow these milestones for a typical 20 m² alfresco pad:

• Planning & approvals: 1–2 weeks
• Site prep & formwork: 1–2 days
• Pour & exposure: 1 day
• Curing period: 7–10 days
• Sealing & final clean‑up: 1 day

Actionable Budget Example for 20 m² Alfresco Pad:

• Site preparation (excavation, base): $40/m² × 20 = $800
• Concrete & aggregate supply: $100/m² × 20 = $2,000
• Labour, exposure & finishing: $50/m² × 20 = $1,000
• Sealer & clean‑up: $10/m² × 20 = $200

Subtotal: $4,000
+10 % contingency: $400
Estimated total: $4,400

With these figures in hand, you’ll be ready to compare quotes on equal footing and keep your exposed aggregate project on track.

Step 2: Choose Your Aggregate and Colour Palette

Once you’ve got your plan sketched out, it’s time to pick the stones and shades that will make your exposed aggregate pop. The right combination of aggregate type, size and colour not only delivers the look you want but also ensures the surface performs under Perth’s sun, splash‑downs and tyre treads. Take your time here—ordering sample boards and testing them on‑site will save headaches (and dollars) down the track.

Understand Aggregate Types and Characteristics

Not all stones are created equal. Here’s a quick rundown of the most popular choices:

• Quartz
  • Pros: Bright, consistent colours; excellent hardness and abrasion resistance; UV‑stable.
  • Cons: Higher price point; fewer natural speckle variations.
• Granite
  • Pros: Natural flecks and veining; very durable; mid‑range cost.
  • Cons: Colour can vary between batches; slightly less reflective than quartz.
• Flint
  • Pros: Deep, dramatic hues; superb weather resistance.
  • Cons: Limited colour palette; may show light surface dust in dry conditions.

Each stone weathers differently, so think about how you want your driveway, alfresco or pool surround to age. Granite and flint tend to develop a softer, natural patina over time, while quartz holds its original hue longer.

Select Stone Size for Desired Texture

Stone size is your main dial for balancing texture, grip and comfort underfoot. Generally you’ll see:

• Small (5 mm)
  • Exposure: Subtle.
  • Feel: Smooth under barefoot; lower non‑slip rating.
  • Best for: Protected alfresco areas and light pedestrian zones.
• Medium (10 mm)
  • Exposure: Classic look.
  • Feel: Good grip without feeling too rough; meets P4–P5 slip ratings.
  • Best for: Pool surrounds and sheltered driveways.
• Large (14 mm)
  • Exposure: Bold, pronounced stones.
  • Feel: High traction; can be a bit harsh barefoot.
  • Best for: Heavy‑duty driveways and areas where skid resistance is paramount.

Match the stone size to how the space will be used—if toddlers and bare feet are a regular feature, err on the side of a smaller profile.

Choose Colours and Create Sample Boards

Colour can make or break your design. Here’s a simple way to narrow down the perfect palette:

1. Pick 2–3 aggregate types and oxide blends that appeal to you—consider complementary shades to your brick, render or landscaping.
2. Order small sample boards (roughly 300×300 mm) from your installer or supplier.
3. Lay them in the actual location, photograph in morning and late afternoon light, and live with them for a few days.
4. Note how shadows, UV and water (especially around pools) change the look.

For an even smoother process, browse Terrastone’s range of decorative finishes to see high‑quality swatches and get inspired by real‑life installations across Perth.

Step 3: Ensure Compliance with Safety and Slip Resistance Standards

Before any concrete goes in, it’s crucial to make sure your exposed aggregate finish meets legal safety requirements and delivers peace of mind for family and friends. Wet areas—like pool surrounds, alfresco zones or driveways after a rain—can become slipping hazards if the surface isn’t tested and rated correctly. In Australia, adherence to slip resistance standards is not just best practice; it’s a regulatory necessity.

Overview of AS 4586:2013 Slip Resistance Classification

AS 4586:2013 defines six categories:

• P0: High‑risk areas where abrupt changes in level or extreme slickness may occur.
• P1–P2: Low to moderate pedestrian traffic zones, suitable for garages or private courtyards.
• P3: General public areas with occasional wetting—think front steps or covered entries.
• P4: Wet barefoot areas such as pool surrounds and patios—an essential target for most exposed aggregate finishes.
• P5: Very low‑risk, high‑traffic environments where maximum grip is required, for example access ramps or commercial loading bays.

By choosing the right classification, your surface will not only comply with regulations but also reduce the chance of slips and falls year after year. For full details, refer to the AS 4586:2013 Slip resistance classification.

Test Methods for Wet and Dry Surfaces

Laboratories use two main methods to certify slip performance:

• Wet Pendulum Test (TRL): Measures friction when a rubber slider swings across a wet surface. It’s the go‑to standard for pedestrian safety.
• Wet‑Barefoot (Inclining Platform) Test: Determines the minimum tilt angle at which a glazed foot replica begins to slip on a wet surface—critical for barefoot zones around pools.

Always request test certificates from your concrete supplier or installer. These documents should show testing against AS 4586:2013 and confirm the classification achieved. Without them, you’re taking a risk on unverified performance.

Selecting Finishes to Meet Required Rating

Match your aggregate choice and surface profile to the desired slip rating:

• Opt for a medium (10 mm) quartz or granite blend to achieve P4—this size offers a good grip under barefoot while still looking refined.
• Larger (14 mm) stones can push you toward P5 but may feel too rough for children’s feet.
• For alfresco areas that stay mostly dry, a smaller (5 mm) profile might reach P3, yet be gentler on bare soles.

If your pool surround must hit P4 or above, a 10 mm aggregate with a pronounced texture is ideal. Always verify that the final polish or exposed depth doesn’t inadvertently smooth out the stones and lower the slip rating.

By prioritising certified slip resistance from the planning stage, you’ll enjoy a stylish exposed aggregate finish that’s as safe as it is stunning—no compromises needed.

Step 4: Incorporate Water Sensitive Urban Design Principles

Water Sensitive Urban Design (WSUD) brings environmental performance to your exposed aggregate project. By reducing runoff, filtering pollutants and encouraging groundwater recharge, WSUD creates a healthier local ecosystem—and it can enhance the aesthetics of driveways, alfresco areas and pool surrounds across Perth’s suburbs. Layering pervious paving with solid surfaces, or integrating planter channels, keeps water on site and out of storm drains. For detailed technical guidance, consult the WA Government’s WSUD pervious paving guidelines.

Define Pervious Paving and Its Types

Pervious paving allows stormwater to pass through the surface, easing pressure on conventional drainage systems. Popular WSUD options include:

• Porous concrete: fine-graded mix with void spaces up to 15%; infiltration up to 600 mm/hr; suitable for light traffic.
• Permeable pavers: interlocking units with joint fillings of gravel or turf; infiltration around 50–150 mm/hr; perfect for residential driveways.
• Porous asphalt: open-graded bitumen with high void content; infiltration 200–400 mm/hr; robust under moderate loads.
• Turf reinforcement mesh: grass-filled grids that bear vehicle loads; infiltration 10–50 mm/hr; blends greenery with function.

Each type offers a trade‑off between infiltration rate, load capacity and maintenance demands. Choose the material that aligns with your driveway, pathway or alfresco usage.

Design Considerations for Stormwater Management

A solid WSUD layout starts with a site analysis:

• Infiltration tests: excavate test pits and measure soak‑in rates. Perth’s sandy soils often drain quickly, but clayey pockets may need attention.
• Groundwater depth: ensure your pervious layers sit well above the water table to avoid saturation.
• Slope and falls: maintain a gentle 1–3 % gradient to guide excess water into designated soakaways or planter zones without eroding the surface.

Amplify performance with sub‑surface features like stone infiltration trenches or soakaway pits. These elements capture overflow and release water slowly back into the ground.

Integrating WSUD into Outdoor Areas

Combining WSUD with exposed aggregate finishes results in practical, attractive landscapes:

• Hybrid driveways: alternate 1 m bands of solid exposed aggregate with 1 m strips of permeable pavers. Vehicles rest on the aggregate, while the joints channel rainwater into the base course.
• Planter strips and grass channels: run narrow planter beds alongside alfresco areas or pool surrounds, filled with pebbles or native grasses. They act as biofilters, trapping sediments and nourishing plant roots.
• In‑ground soak pits: locate small pits beneath lawn or gravel zones, linked by perforated pipes. During storms, surface water seeps through paving joints and is stored below until it percolates away.

By weaving together solid and pervious zones—while adhering to WSUD best practice—you’ll achieve an exposed aggregate installation that looks bespoke, manages stormwater on site and contributes to Perth’s water resilience.

Step 5: Prepare the Site and Sub-base

Well‑prepared ground is the foundation of a durable exposed aggregate finish. If you skip or under‑prepare the sub‑base, you risk uneven settlement, surface cracking and premature failure. Taking time to clear, level and compact the base soil—and to install quality base materials—ensures your concrete will last decades, even under Perth’s variable weather and load demands.

Start with proper site clearance, then establish the correct falls. Next, lay a geotextile membrane to separate the soil from your aggregate base. Finally, install and compact a crushed rock layer at the right depth. Each of these steps builds stability, promotes drainage and prevents movement that could damage your new surface.

Clearing and Levelling the Area

The first task is to strip away anything that might compromise the base: vegetation, roots, topsoil and loose debris. Aim to expose a firm, undisturbed subgrade. As you clear, mark out the outer edges of your project and set string lines to guide your levelling.

Achieving the correct slope is essential for water runoff. Fall the surface at least 1–2 % away from buildings and pool edges—roughly 10–20 mm drop per metre—to direct rainwater toward drainage points and away from foundations. Use an engineer’s level or a laser level to check your accuracy before moving on.

Installing Geotextile and Base Layers

With the area cleared and levelled, roll out a geotextile membrane across the entire subgrade. This fabric keeps fine soil particles from mixing with your base aggregate, preventing soft spots and ensuring even compaction.

Next install a 100–150 mm layer of 20 mm crushed limestone or local road‑base aggregate. Spread the material evenly, then compact in 50 mm lifts rather than all at once. This staged approach helps you reach the target density and maintain consistent bed angles without overworking the base.

Compaction and Drainage Considerations

Compaction is non‑negotiable. A well‑compacted sub‑base resists movement under loads, minimises shrinkage and reduces the risk of future cracks. Aim for at least 95 % California Bearing Ratio (CBR) by using a plate compactor or ride‑on roller. If you have access to a compaction gauge, verify the density as you go.

Finally, think about water management beneath the surface. If the project area sits over clayey soils or a high water table, install edge drains or perforated drainage pipes at the base of the sub‑base. These drains capture excess water and channel it to soakaways or stormwater systems, keeping the subgrade dry and stable.

By carefully clearing, levelling, separating and compacting your site, you’ll set the stage for a crack‑free, long‑lasting exposed aggregate finish. Next up: Step 6, where we’ll look at formwork and edging to shape your concrete with precision.

Step 6: Install Formwork and Edging

Formwork and edging act like a mould for your exposed aggregate slab, controlling its shape, levels and edge detail. Properly installed forms keep concrete lines straight, ensure consistent thickness and help you achieve those crisp bull‑nose or chamfered edges. Skimping on formwork often leads to uneven surfaces, misaligned joints and a finish that looks anything but professional.

Before you start, double‑check your layout against the plan. Mark out the perimeter with stakes and string lines, verifying fall directions and overall dimensions. Once you’re confident in the footprint, it’s time to choose formwork materials, set accurate levels and secure everything firmly in place.

Selecting Formwork Materials

Your choice of form material affects durability, ease of handling and the quality of the exposed edge:

• Timber: Cost‑effective and easy to cut for straight lines or gentle curves. Timber can swell if it gets wet, so use seasoned hardwood or beach‑ply sheet for greater stability.
• Aluminium: Lightweight, reusable and dimensionally accurate. Ideal for tight tolerances and long‑term use—common on commercial‑scale projects.
• PVC or Composite: Waterproof and resistant to warping. Best suited where moisture exposure is high, such as pool surrounds or alfresco areas.

For curved edges or bespoke designs, thin strips of bent plywood or flexible PVC extrusion will hold shape without kinking. Whatever material you pick, it should withstand the lateral pressure of fresh concrete and remain true under vibration.

Setting Levels, Falls, and Expansion Joints

Accurate levels and falls are non‑negotiable for drainage and longevity:

• Use a laser level or lined‑up spirit levels on timber rails to get a uniform height around the formwork.
• Maintain at least a 1–2% fall (10–20 mm per metre) away from building walls and pool edges to direct water to drains.
• Plan expansion joints at regular intervals—typically every 3–5 metres—so that inevitable shrinkage cracks occur in controlled locations.

Expansion joints can be pre‑formed strips or mastic‑filled saw cuts. Position them near weld lines, corners or any change in slab width to prevent random cracking.

Securing Forms and Edge Treatments

Once your forms are in place, bracing ensures they stay put under the weight and pressure of the pour:

• Drive stakes firmly every 600–800 mm along the outside face.
• Tie form boards together with wire or use form pins and clips to stop bulging.
• Check diagonals and corner angles to keep the layout square.

For edging, consider decorative profiles that complement your home’s aesthetic:

• Bullnose edge: Rounded finish that’s safe for bare feet and lends a soft, traditional look.
• Chamfer edge: Small 45° bevel that’s understated yet elegant.
• Square edge with metal caps: Sharp lines paired with aluminium for a modern, architectural feel.

After securing everything, give the forms a final check—levels, bracing and joint locations—before the concrete arrives. With solid formwork and edging, you’ll create the precise framework needed for a stunning exposed aggregate finish.

Step 7: Mix and Pour the Exposed Aggregate Concrete

The mix and pour stage is where your careful planning comes together in tangible form. A correctly designed concrete mix ensures the stones sit at just the right depth for both appearance and performance. Likewise, a smooth, uninterrupted pour prevents cold joints and weak spots, giving you a uniform surface that will stand up to traffic, weather and time.

Timing and coordination are crucial. Once the trucks roll in or your on‑site mixer fires up, you’ll have a limited window to place, level and finish the concrete before it begins to set. Gather your crew, confirm your formwork is locked in place and double‑check your levels—all before the first batch arrives.

Understanding Mix Design and Aggregate Ratios

A typical exposed aggregate concrete mix follows a proportion roughly like this:

• Cement : Sand : Coarse Aggregates = 1 : 2 : 3
• Water–cement ratio = 0.45–0.55 by mass

Keeping the water–cement ratio low helps the concrete achieve higher early strength and reduces bleeding, which can sink your stones too deep. The coarse aggregates (your chosen decorative stones) make up around 40–50 % of the total mix volume. Too little stone and you’ll end up with a bland, shallow exposure; too much, and the concrete loses cohesion.

If you’re using colour oxides, these are typically dosed at 2–5 % of the cement weight. Always blend pigments thoroughly in the mixing drum or pug mill to avoid streaks and ensure consistent hues across the slab.

On-Site Mixing vs Ready-Mix Delivery

Deciding between on‑site batching and Ready‑Mix Delivery comes down to volume, access and quality control:

• Ready‑Mix Delivery
  • Pros: Factory‑controlled mix design, consistent quality, minimal on‑site handling
  • Cons: Truck access issues in tight suburban blocks; higher short‑load fees for small areas
• On‑Site Mixing
  • Pros: Flexibility to adjust slump or pigment on the fly; no access constraints for trucks
  • Cons: Requires experienced operator; risk of uneven batching if water or cement is mis‑measured

As a rule of thumb, go with ready mix if your project exceeds 10 m² and your driveway or street frontage allows easy truck manoeuvres. For smaller slabs or confined backyards, a portable mixer plus a trained crew may deliver better results and lower waste.

Best Practices for Pouring and Leveling

Smooth pouring and levelling is a choreographed process:

1. Screed
   • Move the beam along your formwork rails to strike off excess concrete, achieving your initial levels and falls.
2. Tamp
   • Use a tamping tool to work the mix, allowing coarse aggregates to settle upward and reducing air voids.
3. Bull-Float
   • Immediately follow with a bull‑float to smooth the surface, pushing paste back up and loosening the top layer of aggregates.

Keep the sequence continuous. If you pause too long, the edges begin to firm up and cold joints appear. Coordinate your crew so that as one person screeds, another tamps and a third follows with the float. For large areas, work in bays no wider than the length of your screed bar to maintain control.

Once the surface is level and the aggregates have settled near the form edges, you’re ready for the exposure stage. But first, let your concrete reach initial set—typically 2–4 hours—before moving on. For inspiration on how a well‑executed pour can transform a driveway, take a look at our gallery of exposed aggregate driveways and see these principles in action.

Step 8: Expose the Aggregate Surface

The moment you’ve been waiting for arrives when it’s time to reveal the beauty beneath the surface paste. Exposing the aggregate is a balance of chemistry, timing and technique—get it right, and you’ll showcase crisp, colourful stones that give your driveway, alfresco or pool surround its signature texture.

Begin by selecting a chemical retarder to delay cement hydration on the slab’s surface. Once the retarder has done its work, a carefully timed wash-back using high‑pressure water (and a bit of elbow grease) uncovers the aggregates at just the right depth. Follow up with a gentle mechanical rub or light grinding, then clear away residue to leave a clean, even finish.

Applying Chemical Retarders

Chemical retarders slow the setting of cement paste on the surface without affecting the concrete below. To use:

• Choose a spray applied retarder designed for decorative concrete. Coverage typically sits around 1 L per 4–5 m²—always check the manufacturer’s rate.
• Don safety gear: gloves, eye protection and a respirator if the product label specifies.
• Apply evenly with a low‑pressure pump sprayer, working from one end of the slab to the other to avoid streaks. Aim for a uniform mist rather than a heavy stream.

Once applied, the retarder sits on the fresh concrete, stopping the top paste from curing. That paste is what holds the aggregates in place—later, it will wash away to expose the stones.

Timing and Techniques for Washing Back

Timing is critical. Wait too long and the entire slab hardens; wash too early and you’ll lose fine paste and weaken the surface:

• In Perth’s typical summer temperature (25–35 °C), begin washing back after 6–8 hours. In cooler conditions,延长 to 12–24 hours.
• Set your pressure washer between 80–100 bar, fitting a fan nozzle (25–40°) for broad coverage. Test spray on a small corner to dial in the ideal pressure.
• Stand at a 45° angle about 200 mm from the surface. Move steadily to avoid gouging the concrete or undermining the base.

During the rinse, you’ll see cement residue wash away in milky torrents—keep the runoff contained and direct it into a drain or collection pit to prevent sediment from clogging your landscaping.

Mechanical Methods and Cleanup

After the bulk of the retarder and weakened paste is removed, mechanical tools help achieve uniform exposure:

• Use stiff nylon brushes on long handles to scrub lightly across the surface, evening out any high or low spots.
• For stubborn patches, a handheld concrete scarifier or light grinder (with a diamond‑grit cup wheel) can gently shave excess paste. Keep passes shallow—about 1–2 mm—to avoid scratching the stones.
• Rinse again with low‑pressure water to lift remaining fines. Collect wastewater and let sediments settle before disposing of clear water per local regulations.

Finally, inspect the slab under different light angles, noting any areas where stones sit too deep or remain partially covered. Touch up these spots with a hand sprayer (retarder) and repeat the wash‑back locally. Once you’re happy with the breadth and uniformity of exposed stones, allow the concrete to firm up before moving on to curing and sealing in Step 9.

For inspiration on how an expertly exposed aggregate surface transforms a pool area, explore our gallery of exposed aggregate pool surrounds.

Step 9: Finish, Cure, and Protect Your Surface

After exposing the stones, your concrete needs the right finishing touches and curing routine to lock in strength and durability. Skipping or rushing this phase can lead to shrinkage cracks, surface dusting or uneven textures. A well‑executed finish not only ensures a seamless look but also sets up your exposed aggregate for years of reliable performance in Perth’s climate.

You’ll handle two main tasks here: refine the surface to a uniform appearance, then apply a curing method that keeps moisture in the slab long enough for full hydration. Once cured, a light inspection and initial clean‑up prepare the area for sealing in the next step. Follow these techniques to protect your investment and achieve a showroom‑worthy finish.

Hand Finishing vs Power Tools

Choosing between manual and mechanical finishing tools comes down to slab size, budget and the desired level of polish:

• Hand Trowels
  • Pros: Low cost; precise control in tight spots; gentler on smaller areas.
  • Cons: Labour intensive; can leave inconsistent textures over large expanses.
• Power Floats
  • Pros: Fast and uniform; optimises density and surface durability; ideal for medium to large slabs.
  • Cons: Equipment hire adds cost; steeper learning curve for operators unfamiliar with machine timing.

For a 20 m² alfresco or driveway, a small power float makes quick work of smoothing while keeping aggregates exposed just enough. On pool surrounds or intricate borders, switch to hand finishing to preserve edge detail. Whichever approach you choose, keep movements light—over‑trowelling can push stones down and leave a slur‑coated look.

Curing Methods to Prevent Cracking

Proper curing ensures the cement continues reacting with water, building strength and reducing shrinkage:

1. Water Spray or Fogging
   • Periodically mist the surface for 7–10 days, especially during hot, dry spells.
2. Wet Hessian or Burlap
   • Lay damp hessian over the slab immediately after finishing; keep it moist by re‑wetting twice daily.
3. Curing Compounds
   • Spray on a membrane‑forming compound following manufacturer’s guidelines; this method can eliminate the need for frequent wetting.

Aim to maintain a moist environment on the concrete surface for at least one week, extending to ten days if temperatures exceed 30 °C. If you use a curing compound, allow the recommended tack‑free time before proceeding to initial cleaning.

Initial Cleaning and Surface Inspection

Once the concrete has gained adequate strength and the curing period is complete, give the slab a thorough check:

• Remove Any Residue: Sweep or rinse off loose cement fines (laitance) and any remaining debris.
• Inspect Exposure: Walk the slab at low sun angles to spot areas where stones sit too deep or the paste is still prominent.
• Quality Checklist:
  • Uniform aggregate exposure across the entire surface
  • No visible cracks, sand pockets or soft spots
  • Consistent fall and drainage away from structures

Address any minor imperfections immediately—lightly wash and re‑brush shallow spots, or use a diamond‑grit brush to reveal stubborn stones. A meticulous clean‑up ensures your exposed aggregate is ready for sealing and years of picture‑perfect performance.

Step 10: Seal and Maintain Your Exposed Aggregate

Protecting your exposed aggregate with the right sealer and a simple maintenance routine keeps colours vivid, surfaces strong and slip ratings intact. Think of sealing as a clear shield, locking in your stone’s natural beauty while repelling oil splashes, tannin stains from gum trees and the harsh UV rays of a Perth summer. Proper maintenance then makes sure water drains away, dirt doesn’t embed itself and your patio, pool surround or driveway stays picture‑perfect year after year.

Choosing the Right Sealer for Durability

Selecting a sealer comes down to deciding between two main categories:

• Penetrating sealers: These products soak into the concrete’s pores, forming an invisible barrier that resists water, oils and mild chemicals without altering the surface sheen. Because they don’t create a film on top, you’ll retain the authentic “raw” look of your aggregate. Penetrators generally have lower VOCs and are less likely to yellow in bright sunlight, making them a solid choice for pool surrounds and alfresco living zones.
• Topical (coating) sealers: These form a thin layer on the surface, producing a wet‑looking gloss or semi‑gloss that intensifies stone colours and highlights textures. While they offer strong protection against spills and simplify cleaning, high‑build films can slightly increase slipperiness when wet and may require light abrasion before recoating. Look for exterior‑grade, UV‑stable products rated for driveways or decks and compliant with environmental standards.

Check product data sheets for VOC levels—choosing a low‑VOC, water‑based sealer not only meets WA regulations but also reduces odour during application and off‑gassing over time.

Sealing Application Techniques

A smooth, even sealer coat relies on the right tools and timing:

1. Surface Preparation: Ensure the slab is clean, dry and free from curing compounds or laitance. A simple wash with pH‑neutral detergent and a low‑pressure rinse usually suffices; let the surface dry out for 24–48 hours, depending on humidity.
2. Equipment Selection:
   • Roller: A medium‑nap, lint‑free roller delivers consistent coverage and good penetration on rough textures.
   • Brush: Use a soft‑bristle brush to work the sealer into edges, joints and around fixtures.
   • Sprayer: An airless or low‑pressure pump sprayer can cover large areas quickly, but always back‑roll to avoid puddles or uneven film thickness.
3. Application:
   • Coat Count: Apply two thin coats rather than one heavy one. Thin coats dry faster, reduce runs and promote deeper penetration.
   • Drying Times: Follow manufacturer instructions—most water‑based sealers require 2–4 hours between coats and a full cure of 24–48 hours before foot traffic.
4. Temperature and Weather: Seal on a calm day between 10–25 °C, avoiding direct sun and windy conditions that can cause rapid drying or debris contamination.

Long-Term Maintenance and Resealing Schedule

Once sealed, regular upkeep ensures lasting performance:

• Annual Inspection: Walk your surface in winter after rains—check for dull or patchy areas, efflorescence or trapped debris in joints.
• Routine Cleaning: Every 3–6 months, sweep or vacuum loose dirt, then hose with a low‑pressure rinse. For stubborn grime, scrub with a soft brush and a mild detergent; avoid harsh acids or high‑pressure washers.
• Resealing: Plan to reseal every 3–5 years, or sooner in high‑traffic zones. A simple water‑beading test reveals if your sealer is wearing thin: if water stops beading on the surface, it’s time to apply a fresh coat.

For tailored advice on maintaining an outdoor living area, explore our guide on exposed aggregate alfresco areas and discover tips for cleaning, spot repairs and quick touch‑ups.

By choosing the right sealer and committing to a few minutes of care each month, you’ll preserve the lustre and safety of your exposed aggregate investment. Next, in Step 11, we’ll help you decide if a professional installer or a DIY approach best suits your project.

Step 11: Selecting a Professional Installer vs DIY

Deciding whether to tackle your exposed aggregate project yourself or enlist a professional installer hinges on several factors: the project’s scale, your experience with concrete work, available equipment, and how much time you can invest. A DIY approach can be rewarding if you’re laying a small, simple pad and have access to the right tools. However, large driveways, intricate curved forms or critical slip‐resistance zones (like pool surrounds) usually demand specialist skills, high-grade equipment and knowledge of Australian standards. Before you pick up a shovel or sign a contract, weigh the pros and cons carefully—your choice here will influence the quality, safety and durability of the finished surface.

Evaluating Installer Credentials and Experience

When you consider a professional, look beyond the quote and inspect their credentials:

• Licences and insurance: Verify they hold a WA Building Commission licence and have public liability cover.
• Industry affiliations: Membership of Master Builders Association or decorative concrete networks indicates commitment to best practice.
• Portfolio and references: Ask to see recent projects in Perth—especially exposed aggregate driveways, alfresco areas or pool surrounds—and speak directly to past clients.
• Slip‐rating compliance: A seasoned installer will supply AS 4586:2013 test certificates for the exact aggregate/finish combination you choose.

A good installer will introduce you to a dedicated project manager—at Terrastone, for example, Adam Burvill oversees every step from initial measure to final seal—so communication stays clear and quality is consistent.

Obtaining Multiple Quotes and Site Visits

Comparing more than one quote ensures you understand market rates and scope details. Aim to:

• Book on‑site visits: Sketch dimensions, inspect subsoil conditions and discuss drainage or WSUD requirements in person.
• Compare apples with apples: Check that each contractor includes base preparation, formwork, exposure techniques, curing methods and sealing in their scope.
• Clarify timeline and access: Make sure they’ve reconciled Perth’s traffic restrictions, site access for mixers and any neighbour notifications.
• Ask about extras: Will they provide colour swatches or trial boards? Does the quote cover clean‑up and waste removal?

Written, itemised quotes help you pinpoint variations in materials, labour rates and inclusions—so you can make an informed choice.

Understanding Contracts and Warranties

A well‑drafted contract protects both you and your installer:

• Scope of Work: Clearly defines tasks—excavation, base compaction, concrete mix design, exposure and sealing.
• Payment Schedule: Stipulates deposit, progress payments and final retention to ensure timely completion.
• Completion Date: Sets a realistic window that reflects weather, curing time and any council approvals.
• Warranty Terms: Seek a minimum 5‑year workmanship warranty and confirmation that materials meet Australian Standards (AS 1379 for concrete supply, AS 4586 for slip resistance).

Read fine print on exclusions (e.g., damage from tree roots, extreme settlement) and check dispute‑resolution procedures. A transparent contract gives you confidence that your exposed aggregate installation will be delivered on time, on budget and up to code.

Ready to Transform Your Outdoor Space

You’ve now got everything you need to create a standout exposed aggregate driveway, alfresco area or pool surround that ticks all the boxes—durability, safety, water‑sensitive design and eye‑catching style. By following these 11 steps—from meticulous planning and aggregate selection to expert pouring, exposure, curing and sealing—you’ll set the stage for an outdoor surface that enhances your home and stands the test of time.

Whether you’re mapping out a weekend DIY project or gearing up for a full‑scale renovation, clear budgets, AS 4586 slip‑ratings and WSUD principles will keep your plans on track. And if the scale or complexity ever feels daunting, remember that a professional installation can take the guesswork out of mix designs, testing and finish quality—leaving you to enjoy your new space without the stress.

When you’re ready to bring your vision to life, call on the team that specialises in Perth’s decorative concrete solutions. At Terrastone Architectural Concrete, our dedicated project managers oversee every detail from initial measure to final seal, ensuring seamless communication and a flawless finish. Reach out today for a free quote and expert guidance—let’s create an outdoor area where memories are made.