How to Seal Exposed Aggregate Driveway: Step-by-Step Guide

Exposed aggregate concrete driveways blend enduring durability with striking texture, showcasing natural stone fragments set into a hard-wearing surface. This decorative finish resists everyday wear and tear and can be customised with a wide range of aggregates to suit any home’s style. Best of all, its low-maintenance nature makes it an ideal choice for busy households seeking both form and function.

To keep that crisp appearance and maximise lifespan, a quality sealing treatment is essential. A suitable sealer forms an invisible barrier against moisture penetration, UV fading and chemical or oil stains, while locking in the aggregate’s rich hues and enhancing its subtle sheen. With routine protection in place, your driveway will continue to perform beautifully under Perth’s harsh sun and seasonal downpours.

At Terrastone Architectural Concrete we specialise in exposed aggregate finishes and driveway installations, guiding each project from initial consultation through to completion. In the following step-by-step guide, you’ll learn how to seal your driveway correctly—and why a reseal every three to five years will help preserve both its aesthetic appeal and structural integrity.

Step 1: Inspect and Assess Your Driveway Condition

Begin with a thorough visual and tactile assessment of your exposed aggregate driveway surface. Walk the entire area, examining it from different angles and in varying light—morning and late afternoon will reveal low-lying cracks and shadows. Run your hand over the concrete to feel for rough patches, loose aggregate or surface dips. This first pass gives you a clear sense of the overall condition and highlights areas that demand attention before sealing.

Skipping this inspection can trap moisture under the new sealer and lead to spalling or further cracking. By catching wear early—whether it’s a hairline fissure or a loose stone—you’ll ensure the sealer bonds properly and your driveway enjoys a longer, maintenance-free lifespan.

Identify Surface Damage and Wear

When inspecting, look out for:

  • Hairline cracks that may widen as water seeps in.
  • Pitting and spalling where small chunks of concrete have flaked away.
  • Aggregate pop-outs: loose or missing stones that need rebonding.

Keep a piece of chalk or coloured marker handy to circle each defect. This simple visual cue makes it easy to see which spots require repair when you move on to patching.

Check Previous Sealant Wear

Before you apply a fresh coat, find out how well the old sealer is performing. Try the water-beading test:

  • If water beads on the surface for more than a minute, there’s still some seal left.
  • If it soaks in quickly, the existing protection has worn off.

For full guidance on this test and what it means for your project, see this Concrete Decor guide.

Note on Alfresco and Other Exposed Aggregate Areas

These inspection steps aren’t just for driveways. Your alfresco zone, pool surrounds and any other exposed aggregate finish deserve the same careful review. At Terrastone, our experience with alfresco finishes ensures consistent quality and a uniform look across every outdoor space.

Document and Prioritise Repairs

Once you’ve identified all the trouble spots, capture them in a simple table to keep track:

LocationDefect TypeSeverityAction Required
Near garage entryHairline crackMediumFill with flexible sealant
Centre drive, left sideAggregate pop-outHighRebond stones and patch
Corner adjacent to landscapingPittingLowSurface patch with mortar

Start with high-severity, structural cracks—these allow the most water ingress—then tackle cosmetic blemishes. With this clear roadmap, you’ll set yourself up for a seamless sealing process.

Step 2: Plan for Safety and Environmental Compliance

Before you dive into sealing, it’s essential to protect both your health and the surrounding environment. Sealer products can emit strong vapours and any runoff from cleaning or rinsing may contain particles or chemicals harmful to local waterways. A little forward planning will ensure every stage—from application to wash-down—is managed safely and in line with environmental regulations.

Select Appropriate Personal Protective Equipment

Every project should start with the right protective gear. At a minimum, you’ll need:

  • Nitrile gloves to shield your skin from solvents and additives
  • Safety goggles or a face shield to stop splashes reaching your eyes
  • A respirator with organic vapour cartridges if you’re using solvent-based sealers
  • Knee pads to ease discomfort when kneeling on hard surfaces

Always refer to the sealer’s Safety Data Sheet (SDS) before starting—there may be additional requirements or recommendations depending on the product’s formulation. Check your equipment for wear, fit the respirator correctly and replace cartridges according to the manufacturer’s guidelines.

Contain and Manage Wastewater

Pressure washing is vital to remove ingrained dirt, but the resulting washwater must be contained:

  1. Set up berms, absorbent mats or booms around the work area to prevent run-off entering stormwater drains.
  2. Collect all rinse water in a sump, bucket or lined pit.
  3. Treat this water as controlled waste—sediment and cleaning agents can harm local creeks and groundwater if discharged untreated.

Once solids have settled, decant clear water (where regulations allow) and dispose of remaining sludge through an authorised waste contractor. This approach aligns with WA’s controlled waste requirements and helps protect Perth’s fragile urban waterways.

Plan for Product Storage and Spill Response

A little preparation in storage and spill handling goes a long way:

  • Store sealers and solvents in a cool, well-ventilated area, off the ground and away from open drains.
  • Keep containers tightly closed, clearly labelled and accessible only to authorised personnel.

In case of a spill:

  1. Stop or contain the leak—place a drip tray or absorbent sock beneath the source.
  2. Cover the spill with absorbent pads or inert material (e.g. sand).
  3. Sweep up the contaminated absorbent into a sealable bin or drum.
  4. Label the waste and arrange collection through a licensed hazardous-waste service.

Having a basic spill kit on-site, complete with absorbents, brushes and waste containers, ensures any accident can be dealt with swiftly and responsibly.

Step 3: Gather Tools, Materials and Equipment

Before you get started, gather every tool and product you’ll need. Laying everything out in advance prevents unnecessary trips back and forth and keeps your workflow smooth. Organise your supplies into three categories—sealers and additives, application tools, and cleaning and repair materials—and tick them off before moving on.

List of Sealers and Additives

Select a sealer system that suits your driveway’s performance and aesthetic requirements:

  • Topical acrylic sealers
    • Solvent-based: high-gloss “wet look,” excellent UV resistance and aggregate binding
    • Water-based: lower VOCs, easier cleanup, more natural finish
  • Penetrating sealers
    • Silane/siloxane blends: invisible barrier, long-term water repellence, retains matte appearance
  • Slip-resistant additives
    • Fine silica or polymer beads (10–20 g per litre) to boost traction in wet areas
  • Finish options
    • Gloss: vivid colour enhancement
    • Matte/natural: low sheen, genuine stone character

Required Application Tools

Having the right gear ensures an even, professional seal:

  • Roller frames and ½-inch nap rollers with extension handles for back-rolling
  • Pump-up or low-pressure sprayer for misting the sealer before rolling
  • Pressure washer (2 000–3 000 PSI) with a 25–40° nozzle for deep cleaning
  • Leaf blower or stiff-bristle broom to clear loose debris after washing
  • Protective drop sheets or plastic sheeting to guard adjacent surfaces

Cleaning and Repair Supplies

A thorough clean and solid repairs underpin any successful seal:

  • Degreaser or enzyme cleaner to lift oil and grease
  • Rust remover for metal-induced stains
  • pH-neutral concrete cleaner for general dirt and organic residue
  • Crack chaser or small grinder to open and clean out fissures
  • Polymer-modified patch mix and bonding adhesive for filling cracks and rebonding loose stones
  • Trowel or putty knife for accurate mortar placement

With this checklist complete, your driveway is ready for the next phase: selecting and testing the perfect sealer.

Step 4: Choose the Right Sealer for Your Driveway

Picking the ideal sealer is a balancing act between performance, look and longevity. You’ll want a product that locks out moisture and UV, accentuates the aggregate’s natural colours and stands up to Perth’s heat and traffic. Below, we’ll break down the main options, show you how to decode technical data and point you towards industry guidance so you can make an informed choice.

Compare Topical vs Penetrating Sealers

Topical acrylic sealers form a clear film on the surface, delivering a pronounced “wet look” that deepens your aggregate hues and holds loose stones in place. They’re UV stable and easy to recoat—but will need renewal every 12 to 36 months, depending on wear:

  • Pros: Vivid colour enhancement, improved aggregate bond, good stain resistance
  • Cons: Slightly reduced breathability, more frequent recoating

Penetrating sealers, such as silane/siloxane blends, soak into the concrete’s pores to repel water without altering the finish. They typically last seven to ten years and require minimal upkeep:

  • Pros: Natural, matte appearance retained, long service life, low maintenance
  • Cons: No surface film for extra abrasion protection, slower colour enhancement

Review Manufacturer Technical Data Sheets

Before you buy, download and study each sealer’s Technical Data Sheet (TDS). Focus on:

  1. Coverage rate (m² per litre) to calculate how much you’ll need
  2. Dry and recoat times so you can plan your schedule
  3. VOC content, especially if you’re working with solvent-based products

For example, the Dulux Avista Exposed Aggregate Sealer TDS clearly lists a coverage of 100–150 m² per 10 L and recommends a tack-free time of two hours in ideal conditions. Matching your climate and application window to these specs will help avoid blistering or incomplete cures.

Refer to Industry Best Practices

For a deeper dive into application techniques and environmental considerations, the Concrete Institute of Australia’s Recommended Practices offer invaluable guidance. Their documents cover everything from substrate prep to final inspection and align with national standards—ensuring your project not only looks great but also meets warranty and compliance requirements.

Consider Local Climate and Traffic Load

Perth’s intense sun and summer heat demand sealers with proven UV and heat stability. Look for products rated for high UV exposure, so you won’t face premature chalking or discolouration. Equally, factor in the type of vehicles your driveway will see:

  • Light household cars: most acrylic and penetrating sealers will suffice
  • Occasional trades vehicles or heavier loads: choose a high–solid, abrasion-resistant acrylic or a specialised traffic-grade penetrating sealer

By tailoring your sealer selection to these site-specific conditions, you’ll achieve the best combination of protection, appearance and lifespan for your exposed aggregate driveway.

Step 5: Check Weather and Schedule the Sealing

Timing is everything when it comes to sealing an exposed aggregate driveway. Applying sealer in the wrong conditions can lead to a patchy finish, delayed curing or even surface defects like blisters and haze. By planning around temperature, humidity and rainfall, you’ll give the sealer the best chance to bond properly and deliver lasting protection.

Ideal Temperature and Humidity Conditions

Sealers perform best within a moderate temperature and humidity range. Aim for daytime temperatures between 10–30 °C and relative humidity under 80 %.

  • Too hot (above 30 °C): The sealer’s solvents can evaporate too quickly, trapping moisture beneath the film. This often results in a hazy, uneven sheen or blistering.
  • Too cold (below 10 °C): Curing reactions slow down significantly, so the sealer may remain tacky for longer or never fully cure.

If you’re working in shoulder seasons, remember that early morning and late afternoon temps can dip below the ideal range—even if midday feels warm enough. Always check both the high and low forecasts before you begin.

Avoid Rain and Extreme UV Exposure

A reliable 24–48 hour dry window is crucial. Any rain during the tack-free period will wash away uncured sealer, while dew can leave unsightly streaks or compromise adhesion.

  • Check the Bureau of Meteorology or a trusted weather app for up-to-the-hour updates.
  • Plan your seal coat for a block of consecutive dry days—ideally with no forecasted precipitation.
  • Schedule applications in the cooler parts of the day to avoid direct midday sun, which can accelerate solvent loss and lead to uneven coverage.

Plan Work in Manageable Sections

Keeping a “wet edge” prevents lap marks and ensures a uniform finish. For most residential driveways, breaking the area into 4 × 4 metre zones works well:

┌─────────┬─────────┐
│ Zone 1 │ Zone 2 │
├─────────┼─────────┤
│ Zone 3 │ Zone 4 │
└─────────┴─────────┘

Tackle one zone at a time, moving systematically to maintain that wet edge. As you complete each square, you’ll avoid sudden starts and stops that can create visible seams. This approach also helps you track your progress—especially useful if weather conditions shift unexpectedly.

Step 6: Clean the Driveway Thoroughly

A perfectly sealed driveway starts with a perfectly clean surface. Any lingering dirt, organic matter or chemical residue will interfere with sealer adhesion and compromise both appearance and durability. In this step, you’ll remove loose debris, treat stubborn stains and give the concrete a deep rinse—then let it dry completely before moving on to repairs or sealing.

Remove Loose Debris and Organic Matter

Begin by clearing away everything that’s sitting on the surface:

  • Sweep the entire area with a stiff-bristle broom or use a leaf blower to dislodge fine dust, sand and leaves.
  • Pay special attention to cracks, joints and drainage channels—use a narrow nozzle or hand brush to flick out trapped twigs and soil.
  • Check overhanging trees or garden beds and keep the area tidy to prevent fresh litter settling as you work.

Removing this top layer of grit and greenery prevents blockages in the sealer’s film and reduces the risk of discolouration from rotting leaves or moss.

Treat Stains and Oil Spots

Concrete driveways often bear the brunt of grease, rust and organic spills. Tackling these spots up front ensures a uniform finish:

  1. Apply a degreaser or enzyme-based cleaner directly to oil stains; let it dwell for 10–15 minutes, then agitate with a stiff nylon brush.
  2. For rust marks, use a dedicated rust remover—follow the product instructions and avoid over-scrubbing, which can expose fresh aggregate.
  3. Rinse treated areas lightly and inspect: if any stain remains, repeat the process until the spot blends into the surrounding concrete.

This targeted cleaning prevents dark patches from telegraphing through translucent sealers and stops contaminants from breaking down the protective film over time.

Pressure Wash and Dry

The final rinse brings every pore of the concrete free from hidden grit, ready for repair and sealing:

  • Use a pressure washer set to 2000–3000 PSI with a 25–40° fan nozzle.
  • Keep the nozzle about 300 mm from the surface and move in even, overlapping passes—sharp angles or close distances can pit the concrete.
  • Work systematically across each zone, then allow the driveway to air-dry for at least 24 hours. In cooler or shaded spots, extend the drying time to 48 hours to guarantee all moisture has evaporated.

A bone-dry substrate not only helps sealers cure correctly but also ensures you won’t trap water beneath the film—eliminating a common cause of blistering or peeling later on.

Step 7: Repair Cracks and Surface Defects

Repairing existing damage before sealing is crucial for a long-lasting finish. Even small cracks and areas of loose aggregate can undermine the bond of your sealer and allow moisture to creep in. Tackle cracks, spalls and pop-outs methodically to create a uniform surface that the new sealer can adhere to effectively.

Prepare Cracks for Repair

Start by opening and cleaning out the cracks so your repair material can form a solid bond. Use a crack chaser blade or small angle grinder fitted with a masonry wheel to widen the crack into a V-shaped groove. This profile gives the filler more surface area to adhere to. As you work, clear out every speck of dust, loose particles and any old sealant with a wire brush or compressed air. A clean, debris-free crack ensures maximum adhesion and helps prevent future re-cracking.

Fill and Level Cracks

Once the cracks are clean and dry, mix a flexible crack filler or polymer-modified mortar following the manufacturer’s instructions. Aim for a smooth, lump-free consistency that’s easy to trowel. Using a margin trowel or putty knife, force the filler into the groove, slightly overfilling to compensate for shrinkage. Then, scrape off the excess and feather the edges so the repair sits flush with the surrounding aggregate. A level surface will be easier to seal and won’t telegraph any dips or ridges through the final coat.

Re-bond Loose Aggregate

Areas where stones have popped out or loosened need special attention. Brush a generous coat of concrete bonding adhesive into the void and the surrounding area. While the adhesive is still tacky, press matching aggregate pieces firmly into place—use spare pebbles from your installation batch or collect from a discreet location. To create a seamless transition, mix a slurry of bonding adhesive and fine cement, then brush it over the repair boundaries, smoothing out any visible seams. Allow the patch to cure according to the adhesive manufacturer’s guidelines before moving on to sealer application.

With cracks filled and loose stones securely rebonded, your driveway surface is now structurally sound and ready to accept its first coat of sealer. Proper preparation at this stage will pay dividends in both performance and appearance once the sealed finish is in place.

Step 8: Conduct a Sealer Compatibility and Absorption Test

Before you commit to sealing your entire driveway, it pays to verify that the chosen product will bond correctly and produce the finish you expect. This two-part check—measuring how readily the concrete absorbs water and trialling a small patch—will highlight any issues with adhesion, coverage or appearance before you invest time and materials in the full surface.

Perform a Water Absorption Test

  1. Select a clean, dry spot on the prepared driveway—ideally in a low-traffic corner or an inconspicuous zone.
  2. Place a single drop (around 5–10 mm in diameter) of tap water onto the concrete.
  3. Start a stopwatch or note the time by your phone clock.

Observe how long the droplet takes to disappear:

  • If the water is absorbed within 5 minutes, the substrate is porous enough for a topical acrylic or penetrating sealer applied directly.
  • If it still beads after 10 minutes, there may be residual sealer or the concrete is unusually dense. In that case:
    • Consider a light solvent wipe or mechanical abrasion to remove old coating.
    • Switch to a primer or a penetrating sealer designed for low-absorption substrates.

This simple test ensures you won’t trap moisture under a film or waste sealer on a surface that won’t accept it.

Test-seal a Small Area

Once you know how the concrete behaves, try a live application:

  1. Mark out a 1 m² trial area with chalk or masking tape.

  2. Apply the sealer exactly as per the manufacturer’s coverage rate and method—spray, back-roll or brush.

  3. Record key observations:

    • Adhesion: Does the sealer bond firmly or peel when you attempt a light scrape?
    • Uniformity: Is the sheen even, with no blotches or streaks?
    • Dry time: Does it reach tack-free stage within the expected window?
  4. Allow the patch to fully cure under the same conditions you’ll seal the rest of the driveway.

  5. Inspect the patch under different light angles and by touch to confirm colour depth, slip resistance and finish quality.

If the trial meets your expectations—and the sealer shows no lifting, hazing or uneven gloss—you’re ready to proceed with confidence. Should any issues arise, adjust your product choice or prep methods before mass application.

Step 9: Apply the First Coat of Sealer

With your driveway clean, dry and repaired, it’s time for the crucial first coat. A careful, even application ensures optimal bond and a uniform finish. Work methodically, maintaining a “wet edge” and avoiding overapplication, which can cause puddles or drips.

Use Sprayer and Roller Technique

Begin by loading your pump-up sprayer with sealer. Lightly mist a 4 × 4 metre zone—just enough to dampen the surface without creating runs. Immediately follow with a ½-inch nap roller on an extension handle, back-rolling the sealer into the concrete. This two-step method promotes consistent coverage and forces the product into every pore.

• Overlap each pass by 10–20 cm to eliminate lap marks.
• Keep the nozzle moving; avoid pausing in one spot.
• Inspect as you go to catch any pooling or uneven sheen, and roll out excess immediately.

Follow Manufacturer’s Coverage Rate

Stick to the coverage guidelines on your sealer’s Technical Data Sheet. Most acrylics and penetrating sealers recommend between 0.08–0.12 L/m². Use the table below as a quick-reference for planning:

Area (m²)First Coat Required (L)
504.0–6.0
1008.0–12.0
15012.0–18.0

Measuring out the litres in advance helps you avoid running short or wasting excess product. If your driveway has multiple zones, tally each section separately.

Monitor Drying and Tack-Free Time

After application, note the sealer’s tack-free timeframe—typically 1–2 hours in ideal conditions. Check the surface every 30 minutes by gently touching a discrete corner with a gloved finger:

  • No residue on the glove = tack-free.
  • Slight stickiness = allow more time before any foot traffic.

Keep the area barricaded or signposted until tack-free status is confirmed. Only once the sealer no longer transfers should you consider moving on to second coats or allowing light pedestrian access.

By following this technique, you’ll establish a solid foundation for further coats and lock in the aggregate’s colours and textures. Your first coat sets the stage for a resilient, beautifully sealed driveway.

Step 10: Apply Additional Coats and Achieve Desired Finish

Once the first coat has cured to a tack-free state, additional layers will bolster protection and refine the look. Applying multiple coats not only increases abrasion resistance but also deepens the aggregate’s colour and enhances overall uniformity. Plan your recoats to build an even, durable film while avoiding over-application that can lead to drips or milky patches.

Timing Between Coats

Most acrylic sealers specify a recoat window of 4–24 hours in ideal conditions. Within this timeframe, the next coat will bond seamlessly to the previous layer:

  • If you recoat too soon (under 4 hours), solvents may not have evaporated fully, causing bubbling or wrinkling.
  • If you wait longer than 24 hours, the surface becomes less receptive—light sanding with a fine-grit pad or a quick solvent wipe will restore adhesion.

Always refer back to the product’s Technical Data Sheet for precise recommendations. Keeping a simple log of application and recoat times helps avoid guesswork and ensures each layer cures properly.

Adjust Finish with Additives

Want to dial in a slip-resistant or tinted finish? Now’s the time to mix in extras:

  • Slip-resistant beads: Stir 10–20 g of silica or polymer beads into every litre of sealer to enhance traction, ideal around pool areas or alfresco zones.
  • Tint concentrates: A few millilitres of colourant per litre can subtly warm or cool the aggregate’s hue without obscuring its natural sparkle.

Use a clean paddle or mixing stick to blend additives thoroughly before pumping into your sprayer or pouring onto the driveway. Thorough mixing ensures the beads and colour distribute evenly, preventing clumps or streaks on the surface.

Inspect for Uniformity and Touch Ups

With all coats applied, carry out a final inspection while the last layer is still fresh:

  1. Walk the driveway under varied light—morning and late afternoon reveal uneven gloss or thin spots.
  2. Use a small roller or hand brush to feather in any missed patches, working quickly to maintain the wet edge.
  3. Look for runs or puddles along edges and tool marks around joints; lightly roll or tip off drips before they cure.

Addressing these minor imperfections now will pay dividends in appearance and longevity. Once you’re satisfied that every section has an even sheen and full coverage, you can move on to final curing and enjoy a beautifully sealed, slip-resistant driveway that stands up to Perth’s conditions.

Step 11: Allow Proper Curing and Drying

Once you’ve applied your final coat, patience is key. Proper curing not only locks in the sealer’s protective qualities but also ensures maximum adhesion, abrasion resistance and colour depth. Rushing this phase can lead to soft spots, milky haze or peeling—so it’s worth guarding the area and monitoring conditions until the sealer reaches its full strength.

Even under ideal conditions, sealers can take several days to cure fully. Factors like temperature, humidity and ventilation all play a part. By following manufacturer guidelines and giving the surface uninterrupted time to harden, you’ll enjoy a more resilient finish and avoid callbacks for premature failure.

Protect from Foot and Vehicle Traffic

  • Barricade the driveway with cones, barrier tape or temporary fencing to prevent accidental access.
  • Erect clear signage—“Sealer Curing: No Access”—to keep family, guests and tradespeople at bay.
  • Adhere to these minimum timelines:
    • 24 hours before any foot traffic
    • 48–72 hours before light vehicle use (passenger cars)
    • 7 days for full cure under heavy loads (trades vehicles, trucks)

During this period, avoid parking in the same spot day after day. Rotating vehicle position helps the sealer cure evenly and reduces the chance of mark-making from tyres.

Monitor and Record Curing Progress

Keeping a simple curing log transforms guesswork into certainty:

DayDateTemperature (°C)Humidity (%)Surface Status
12025-05-132245Dry to touch, no marks
22025-05-142450Surface hardening
32025-05-152640Foot traffic OK
  • Note daily highs, lows and any dew or rain events that could affect curing.
  • Record when the surface first feels firm underfoot and when tyre marks no longer imprint.
  • Log any anomalies—blistering, soft patches or haze—to inform future projects and support warranty claims.

By protecting the area and tracking its progress, you’ll be confident that your sealed driveway is achieving its full potential. With a fully cured finish, your exposed aggregate surface will stand up to Perth’s sun, rain and traffic for years to come.

Step 12: Post-Sealing Maintenance and Re-Sealing Schedule

Once your sealer has fully cured, the work isn’t quite done. Regular upkeep ensures that the protective film remains effective, your aggregate’s colour stays vibrant and minor blemishes don’t become major headaches. By adopting a simple maintenance routine and planning ahead for your next reseal, you’ll extend the life of your driveway and keep it looking its best.

Routine Cleaning Guidelines

Start each season with a quick sweep or a blast from a leaf blower to lift dust, sand and organic debris from the surface. These particles can act like sandpaper underfoot or under tyres, gradually dulling the sealer. At least once a year, give the driveway a gentle low-pressure wash (no more than 1 500 PSI) using a pH-neutral, sealer-safe detergent. Avoid harsh acids, alkalis or bleach-based cleaners—they can erode the protective layer and strip back the colour-enhancing finish. If moss or mould appears in shaded corners, treat only those areas with a specialised concrete cleaner, then rinse thoroughly and let the surface dry completely before resuming light use.

Spot Maintenance and Repair

Accidents happen—a fallen tool or a grease spill doesn’t have to ruin your entire driveway. For fresh oil marks, blot up as much as possible, then clean the spot with a mild, sealer-friendly degreaser. Rinse well and allow it to dry. To address scuffs or surface scratches, wipe the area clean and reapply a small amount of the same sealer, using a brush or roller to feather the edges into the existing coat. This targeted touch-up blends seamlessly and prevents unnecessary recoating of the whole driveway.

When to Plan the Next Re-Sealing

Even the most durable sealers will show wear under Perth’s harsh sun and regular traffic. As a rule of thumb, plan a full reseal every 3–5 years. High-traffic sections or areas under shade may need attention around the three-year mark, while lightly used zones can often wait closer to five years. For detailed advice on timing and product choice, refer to Terrastone’s exposed aggregate considerations. Scheduling your next reseal now means you’ll stay ahead of wear and keep your driveway protected and looking pristine for years to come.

Step 13: Dispose of Waste Responsibly

Once your driveway sealing is complete, the final—and often overlooked—step is responsible waste disposal. Leftover sealers, contaminated rags and wash-down water contain chemicals that shouldn’t enter stormwater drains or landfill without proper handling. By following correct segregation, containment and disposal practices, you’ll protect local waterways, meet regulatory requirements in Western Australia and leave your site clean and compliant.

Segregate and Label Leftover Sealers

Any partially used sealer or additive must be stored safely until disposal. Keep containers in their original tins or drums, and ensure lids are secured tightly to prevent leaks. Clearly label each container with:

  • Product name and batch number
  • Date of opening or partial use
  • Hazard classification (refer to the Safety Data Sheet)

Proper labelling streamlines collection by licensed hazardous-waste contractors and reduces the risk of accidental spills or chemical mixing onsite.

Manage Wash-Off Water as Controlled Waste

Rinse water from pressure washing or equipment cleaning will carry residual sealers, solvents and fine sediment. Treat this wash-off as controlled waste:

  1. Collect all wash-water in sealed, bunded drums or IBCs.
  2. Allow solids to settle and decant clear liquid if permitted by regulations.
  3. Store the remaining sludge and rinse water securely, pending collection.

For detailed guidance on classifying and handling your wash-down effluent, refer to the WA Government’s controlled waste guidelines. Discharging untreated wash-water to storm drains is prohibited and can result in significant fines.

Locate Licensed Disposal Facilities

To finalise the process, engage an authorised facility for both your leftover sealer products and any collected wash-water:

  • Use the Department of Water and Environmental Regulation’s Controlled Waste Tracking System to find approved collection points.
  • Arrange pick-up through a licensed hazardous-waste contractor, providing manifests that detail the waste type, quantity and origin.
  • Retain all disposal receipts and tracking documents for at least two years—this evidence demonstrates your compliance and may be required during site audits.

By closing the loop on material disposal, you’ll not only fulfil legal obligations but also contribute to a cleaner environment in your neighbourhood. Proper waste management is the final polish on a well-executed sealing project.

What’s Next for Your Driveway Care

A well-sealed exposed aggregate driveway is more than just a pretty surface—it’s a long-term investment that enhances curb appeal, prevents damage from Perth’s harsh climate and makes routine maintenance a breeze. By following the steps in this guide, you’ve laid the groundwork for a durable, slip-resistant finish that showcases your aggregate’s natural colours and textures year after year.

Going forward, staying on top of light cleaning and spot repairs will keep your sealer performing at its best. Remember to schedule a gentle sweep and low-pressure wash annually, and plan a full reseal every three to five years—sooner for high-traffic areas or shaded spots. This simple cycle of care will help you avoid costly repairs down the track and maintain a driveway that looks freshly finished, season after season.

When you’re ready to explore other ways to uplift your outdoor living areas, Terrastone Architectural Concrete offers a complete range of decorative concrete solutions. From textured pool surrounds and elegant alfresco zones to coloured and polished finishes, our team can tailor each design to suit your home and lifestyle. Let’s work together to transform every corner of your property into a space that’s built to last and designed to impress.

Ready to start your next project? Visit Terrastone Architectural Concrete to discover our full suite of services or get in touch today for a personalised consultation.

About the author

Photo of Adam Burvill
Adam Burvill
Project Manager | Decorative Concrete Specialist | Founder of Terrastone

Adam Burvill is the driving force behind Terrastone Architectural Concrete, bringing over 15 years of hands-on experience in delivering high-end decorative concrete solutions across Perth. Known for his personal approach and eye for detail, Adam guides every client through the full journey, from initial consultation to project completion, ensuring each space reflects quality, durability and standout design.

Adam is passionate about transforming outdoor areas into timeless, functional spaces you’ll love living in. Whether you're envisioning a custom driveway, pool surround, or alfresco area, Adam brings clarity, craftsmanship, and a commitment to getting it right the first time.

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